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Restaurants
of the Month Lunchtime menús
The
menú del dia is a Barcelona institution, allowing workers
to eat heartily and well at a good price and without having to
commute home. Some menús leave a lot to be desired, being
the tired roll call of the usual suspects: lomo a la plancha,
overboiled veg and industrial yoghurt. But these restaurants go
above and beyond the call of duty
Lluis de les Moles, C/de les
Moles 25, tel 93 317 5866. Open 1.30-4pm Mon-Sat.
Lluis de les Moles is a smart, modern dining space which offers
creative market cuisine at accessible prices. It opens only at
lunchtime, serving an extensive menu del dia, although your choice
is severely limited if you want to avoid paying the supplements
that many of its dishes attract. But it is possible to eat extremely
well -and heartily - without paying extra. Go for the signature
starter of timbal de huevos fritos con patatas de sarten, pimientos
de piquillo y salsa de jabugo -like a Catalan fry-up through an
haute cuisine looking glass. Perfectly waxy potatoes are poached
in oil and layered with flor de sal, marinated piquillo peppers
and blood botifarra sausage, all topped off with a fried egg and
surrounded by a droolingly savoury jamon iberico jus. Do try this
at home folks - you can get the recipe from www.tvcatalunya.com/cuines/receptes/recepta_855.htm.
Casa Valencia, C/Corsega 335.
Tel: 93 237 2759 Open: 1-4pm, 8-11pm every day
Casa Valencia is one of the many casa
culturales in town that cater to the needs and nostalgia of Spanish
immigrants to Catalunya. Its menú always includes a paella
and other rice dishes among the starters. The paella valenciana
has liberal helpings of rabbit, chicken and pork and, most authentically,
Valencian butter bean-esque garrafons. Arroz al horno combines
saffrony rice with pinenut-studded blood sausage, floury potatoes,
caramelised garlic and crusty chickpeas. Valencians, with their
fecund huertas, really know how to make vegetables shine in a
dish.
Niu Toc, Pl Revolució
3, 93 213 7461 Open 1-4pm & 8pm-12am Tues-Sat, 1-4pm Sun.
Niu Toc offers a well-rounded menu del
dia and a generous helping of outdoor seating in a pleasant square.
Their gazpacho comes with a fair handful of fresh-fried croutons
and flecks of veg suggesting it's made in-house rather than poured
from a Tetra Pak. But it is missing the traditional accompanying
sprinklings. The paella has fabulously fishy rice, bolstered with
good chunks of sepia and meat. Main courses include simple lamb
chops and baked potatoes, lightly grilled tuna steak or more crafted
dishes such as a casserole of tender chicken drumsticks, tiny
prawns and waxy potatoes in a rich mustard and rosemary gravy.
The dessert list is chocolate-heavy, with options including puding
de chocolate, crepes stuffed with banana in chocolate sauce and
chocolate profiteroles, all generously drizzled with a cocoa-intensive
sticky chocolate sauce. Service is calm and efficient.
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